Sunday, August 28, 2016

The Great British Bake Off: Sweetly Satisfying

Much has been written about the excellence of The Great British Bake Off (or The Great British Baking Show as it's known in the States). This past week, the seventh season of the show premiered on the BBC with its highest ratings yet. Why do people love this show so much? Let me count the ways.

1. The contestants. Twelve amateur bakers are picked from across the UK. These are thoroughly ordinary citizens from all walks of life. None of them bake for a living but they all bake for enjoyment and this show will put their passion to the test. No matter where they're from or their family background, one thing unites all Bake Off contestants: their Britishness. These are not the showboating reality stars of American TV shows. These are self-deprecating Brits who will bake up a storm and then shrug their shoulders at a compliment, never willing to say they did a good job until someone forces them to acknowledge that they have accomplished a miracle. 

2. The judges. Mary Berry and Paul Hollywood. With names like that, they have to be good. And they are. They are renowned bakers in their own right but also the ideal judges - firm but fair, always willing to find something to praise if your bake went horribly wrong and bound to nitpick if you missed one tiny thing that would have transformed your almost-perfect bake into a masterpiece. They are knowledgeable, kind, and charismatic, the perfect mentors for eager amateurs. 

3. The hosts. The comedy duo of Mel Giedroyc and Sue Perkins are great audience surrogates. Two ladies who don't know anything about baking but are sure as hell going to taste all the delicious treats. As they cheerfully announce each impossible round and then wander around the tent offering humor and support to the harried contestants, they are like a pair of adorable puppies, seeking only to bring a smile to your face or comfort you when your souffle collapses before your eyes. 

4. The format. Every episode has a theme and consists of three rounds: the Signature bake, the Technical challenge, and the Showstopper. Contestants are briefed in advance about the first and third rounds so they can practice during the week in their homes and give their closest friends and families diabetes while coming up with wondrous creations that are destined to wow the judges and audience alike. But the Technical challenge is a devilish thing. Each week, one of the judges picks an obscure recipe for an item that most of the contestants have never heard of or never made. To make matters worse, the recipe doesn't have all the details, forcing the contestants to guess at how long to leave something in the oven or how long to proof the dough. It's always a wonder that anyone makes anything edible at all. 

5. It's simply wonderful. Like a perfect bake, the above four elements of the show combine to make something greater than the sum of its parts. Over the past few weeks, I watched the latest season on PBS. I already knew who had won because it was discussed at length in the British press, but as I watched each episode, I still found myself thoroughly invested in every single baker, cheering for their artistry and commiserating in their disappointments. And when I got to the finale, I teared up, because the winner was so utterly gobsmacked and so genuinely deserving. The show feels comfortable and predictable but over the course of ten weeks, you truly get to know these people and feel like they are your closest friends. Every person who gets eliminated is dearly missed and every person who wins Star Baker is genuinely celebrated. 

The Great British Bake Off is an insidious show, a seemingly simple reality program that nonetheless worms its way into your heart. It has no time for apathy or pessimism; it only wishes to promote warmth and cheer. Be warned, every episode will leave you ravenous. But as empty as your stomach may feel, your heart will be full. 

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